Choosing Braid Size, Length, and Texture
Select a size based on your hair’s strength and the look you want. There are 3 basic braid sizes for this look—micro, normal, and jumbo. Normal-sized braids are approximately the width of a pencil, so if you want jumbo braids, you can go with any size larger than that. Make your choice based on the current condition of your hair and the look you’re trying to create. The larger you make your jumbo braids, the heavier they will be. If your hair isn’t in the best condition right now, it's best to keep your jumbo braids on the smaller side of the spectrum. Micro braids are anything thinner than the width of a pencil. Like jumbo braids, micro braids can also vary in size slightly.
Choose a braid length based on the hairstyles you want to create. If your natural hair is already your ideal length, you’re all set. If you want your braids to be longer or thicker than your natural hair, you’ll need to purchase hair extensions. Human hair extensions are the best choice, but they’re also the most expensive option. Make your decision based on what you can afford. For example, waist-length box braids are a popular look, but most people don’t have waist-length hair naturally! You'll need extensions for this look. Bob-length box braids are a popular style choice, as well. Depending on the length of your hair, you may not need extensions for this look. Remember to factor in your hair's strength. The longer the braids are, the heavier they’ll be.
Buy hair extensions that match the current texture of your hair, if needed. If your hair is relaxed, remember to buy extensions that are straight and silky so that they can be woven seamlessly into your natural hair. If your hair is thick and coarse, or if you want a kinkier, more undone look, make sure your extensions have a similar texture. Choose weft bundles that are similar to the braid size you're going for, since you'll be using 1 weft bundle per braid. You will add the extensions during the braiding process, so if you have extensions currently installed, you'll need to take them out and start fresh with new ones. You may want to examine your hair and the extensions side by side to make sure the textures match before you buy anything. For a fun look, consider hair extensions in an eye-catching color like pink or blue. Make these decisions before you start braiding for the best results.
Detangling and Sectioning Your Hair
Wash and condition your hair as you normally would. It’s important to shampoo your hair within 24 hours before you install your braids so that you start off with a clean base. Use a moisturizing, sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner to prevent dry hair, since brittle strands are prone to damage during the braiding process. Then, towel dry your hair gently to get rid of excess water. When you're shopping for shampoo and conditioner, check the label to find options that contain hydrating natural oils like coconut or argan oil. If you want extra hydration, consider doing a hot oil or deep conditioning treatment right before you shampoo and condition your hair.
Apply leave-in conditioner and detangle your hair with a wide-toothed comb. The leave-in conditioner will give you another dose of hydration and make detangling a little easier. Apply the leave-in conditioner from root to tip, concentrating on the ends the most. Then, start combing your hair out, starting at the ends, and slowly work your way up to the roots until you’ve removed all knots and tangles. Work slowly and in small sections as you detangle, taking care to be as gentle as you can with your hair.
Blow dry your hair if you want to achieve a silkier texture. If you’re going for a natural texture, leave your hair damp for the braiding process. If you have relaxed hair and you’re trying to create a straight, silky look with your braids, it helps to blow dry your hair first. Be sure to apply a heat protectant and use the lowest heat setting to prevent hair damage. If desired, apply a silkening serum to dried hair to tame fly-aways and control frizz.
Section your hair into 4 portions and clip back 3 of them. Use the end of a rattail comb to part your hair down the center from front to back to create 2 sections. Then, divide the hair from ear to ear across the crown of your head to create a total of 4 sections, or quadrants. Leave one of the front sections loose and clip the other 3 sections out of the way for now. Always section your hair beforehand so it's easier to work with.
Divide the loose hair into smaller sections depending on braid size. Jumbo braids are braids that are thicker than a pencil. It's up to you how jumbo you want the braids to be! Use the rattail comb to create clean parts and aim for sections that are uniform in size. It can help to imagine the hair in columns or in a grid when you’re sectioning it off.
Refine the sections with hair wax and tie each one off with an elastic. For a super clean look, perfect the sections and create clean edges by applying a little wax or gel to each section of hair separately. Twist the hair a little as you apply the wax or gel from root to tip. Then, wrap a hair elastic around the end of each section so they stay separated from each other while you work. Use the product sparingly, since applying too much can cause problems with buildup later on! Some people prefer to skip the product because of this reason, but it’s up to you.
Installing the Braids
Fold the weft of a hair extension around the natural hair in a U-shape. Grab the first hair extension, pinch the weft into a U-shape with your fingers, and nestle the weft under and around the first section of natural hair at your scalp’s base. Your natural hair should be sandwiched in between the sides of the U shape. If your wefts are super thick, you can cut along the tracks to create thinner wefts.
Divide the hair into 3 equally sized sections. If you’re using extensions, your natural hair will form the center section and the extension hair will create the sections on either side for a total of 3 sections. If you’re not using hair extensions, just split your natural hair into 3 equally sized sections.
Braid the 3 sections in a regular 3-strand braid from root to end. Complete a regular braid by crossing the right section over the middle section, then crossing the left section over the middle section, and continuing to cross the right and left sections over the middle section until you reach the tips of your hair. Braid the hair firmly but don't pull on it or create tension at the scalp. Avoid braiding your hair too tightly, since this can cause scalp pain and irritation later on. If the edges or your scalp feel tight or sore, the braids are too tight. If your braids end up being too tight despite your best efforts, don't worry—there are ways you can loosen them. If your braids tend to unravel, secure the ends with a hair elastic until you seal them.
Repeat the same process on every section of hair. Finish braiding the gridded sections you created with the loose hair first, then unclip the next quadrant of hair, create another grid, and continue the same technique. Keep going until you finish braiding your entire head of hair. The full process could take 2 to 7 hours to complete, depending on the style you’re going for, so be sure to take a few breaks!
Dip the ends in boiled water to seal them. Boil water on the stove, then transfer it to a tall pitcher. Briefly dip the ends of your braids in the water—it will melt the extension hair just enough to fuse them together so your braids won't come unraveled. If you secured your ends with hair elastics, take the elastics out before you dip your ends so you don't burn the elastic into your hair as well. Some people also burn the ends quickly with a lighter to seal them. If you’ve used this technique before and feel comfortable with it, feel free to use it for this.
Smooth the finished braids with a small amount of hair oil, if desired. You don’t have to do this, but it can make your braids look smoother and glossier. You only need to put a tiny amount of oil on your fingertips and work them gently over each braid from root to tip to smooth the hair down and add a little shine.
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