How to Wet Set Hair Rollers

Adding Product to Wet Hair

Shampoo and condition your hair as you normally would. Massage shampoo and once you have rinsed it out, conditioner throughout your hair, from your scalp to the ends. Use a natural shampoo and conditioner if possible, as this promotes a healthy scalp and hair. Use a silicone free conditioner, as this won’t weigh your hair down and will keep it bouncy. The silicone in many conditioners is added to make your hair shiny, however this also makes it difficult for the curls to hold.

Towel dry your hair until it's damp but not soaked. After your get out of the shower, squeeze the water out of your hair with a towel. You want your hair to remain damp, but you don't want it dripping water. Be careful not to over-dry your hair or you won't achieve tight curls. Don't use heat to dry your hair at this stage, as it still needs to be damp for curling.

Use a mousse for a lighter hold. Run the mousse through the length of your hair. Mousse is ideal for wet set hair rollers because it doesn’t weigh your hair down, but it will hold the curls. Mousse will hold the curls more lightly than a setting lotion. This will create more relaxed, casual, and sleek waves. Styling foams like mousse also don’t keep your hair wet for too long.

Spray on a setting lotion instead for vintage curls. Setting lotion has been used since the 1940s to create wet set hair curls. Simply spray your hair from root to tip, with enough setting lotion to lightly cover each part. If you are aiming for glamorous curls with volume, then vintage curls will be what you are after. Vintage curls are a classic old Hollywood look, and are all about bounce and fullness.

Creating the Curls

Use hair clips to separate your hair into sections. Gather each section into a tidy twist, and place the bottom prong of the clip against your scalp, and the top in the middle of the curl. This lets you neatly put the rollers into each section of your hair, giving you curls that both look and hold better. There should be around 4 sections overall, depending on how much hair you have. This keeps the rest of your hair out of the way while you focus on putting rollers into 1 section at a time.

Put two to three rollers along your front hairline. Comb a section of hair as wide as the roller forward over your face. Hold the hair between your fingers up at a 90° angle to your head, so straight into the air. Wrap the ends of your hair over the roller, and roll the section to meet the base of your head. Make sure you are rolling the way you wish your hair to curl. The number of rollers you that you use depends on the amount of hair, and the number of individual curling sections. The more hair you are rolling, or the more individual sections you want, the more rollers you will need.

Secure the roller to your scalp with a clip. You can use either the clip which is attached to the roller if it has one, a bobby pin, or a double-prong metal hair clip. This will hold the roller in place while your hair settles into the curl. You can secure the roller using the clip if it has one by pushing the clip towards the roller firmly. A bobby pin or double-prong metal hair clip can be used by placing 1 prong within the center of the roller, and the other between the roller and your scalp. The rollers should be firm and secure enough to not move or feel loose, but shouldn't be so tight that they hurt your scalp.

Put the rollers into the rest of your hair. This is exactly the same as rolling your front hairline. Wrap your hair ends over the roller and roll it towards your scalp. Make sure the rollers are firm at the base, but are not so tight that they pinch. For a fuller look, stick with the 90° angle for the rollers. However if you are wanting less volume, try a 45° angle to your scalp.

Spray each section with setting lotion again after it has been rolled. This will give your curls a better hold, and they will be defined for longer. Cup each roller in your hand to make sure that the setting lotion will reach it, and spritz once or twice.

Setting Your Curls

Let your hair fully dry. You can either let your hair dry naturally, or use a hairdryer on a low heat. The amount of time it takes to dry your hair will depend on the thickness, length, product used, and how wet it was to begin with. Always leave the rollers in until your hair is fully dry, and never remove them earlier. If you choose to air dry, make sure that your curls are fully cool before removing the rollers. Since it will take several hours for your hair to fully dry when air drying, it's best to sleep on them overnight. You can cover your hair with a silk sleeping cap to help keep it tangle-free, if you'd like.

Remove the hair rollers 1 at a time. Unclip each roller, and then unwind each gently, in any order. Make sure not to tug or pull at your curls. If a roller is a bit stubborn, hold it out and away from your scalp. Then you can twist the roller clockwise to free it from your hair.

Use your fingers or a brush to style the curls. For tight, sleek curls, use your fingers to gently break them up. If you want a lot of volume, brush through each defined, main curl of your hair, with the bristles turned into your head rather than away from, and brush from front to back. This ensures that the brush gets all the way to the ends of your hair, creating smoother and more controlled curls. Always use a brush rather than a comb, as plastic combs create static and frizz. If your hair is naturally frizzy, it's better to use your fingers. When you first take out the rollers and do the first brush strokes, don’t worry if you hair looks a bit crazy and clown-like! The more brush strokes you do, the more your curls will settle into sleek waves.

Set your curls with hairspray. This will help to hold your curls in place over the next few days. Choose a quality hairspray to hold and moisturize the curls, as a cheap one may make the curls stiff and dry your hair out. Be careful not to apply too much hairspray, as this can stifle the curls and lessen their bounce and swing.