BANGALORE: While designer wear is aimed at satiating the wardrobe appetite of the rich and famous, the grandaughter of Raja Dhanrajgir of Hyderabad and former Miss India; and her daughter take pride in creating masterpieces with fabric. Sabita Dhanrajgir Umrigar and Zara Umrigar, the Mumbai-based mother-daughter designer duo have carved a niche for themselves in the who's who of the fashion world. When it comes to embellishments and embroideries on ensembles, there is a fine line between ethereal craftsmanship and tawdry work. The duo, who were recently in the city, showcased the difference between the two. Sabita, once the face of many ad films and winner of the coveted Miss India 1978 as well, showcased a range of exquisite sarees in Chiffons and Georgette's with intense and intricate hand embroidery with sequences, pearls and swarovski crystals in pastel shades. Her daughter Zara, on the other hand displayed a more contemporary and westernised version of her mother’s style. Zara’s collection was a melange of regal grace with overtones of funk. Her collection consisted of short dresses and maxis with embellishments along the neckline and the waist. While she experimented with stretch net and Chiffons, her colours were bolder and stronger. The the mother-daughter duo’s distinguished intricacy and the finesse in their work is what sets them apart. “My Karigars have been working with me for 30 years now. Over time they have gained immense expertise and craftsmanship in their work. In fact some of them who work with me are second generation karigars,” says Sabita. “Though our styles are similar, the integral difference lies in the silhouette and the manner in which the work is placed. While I focus more on contemporary designs, my mother’s style is more traditional,” says the 23-year-old. Their garments mirrored their inspirations. While Sabita’s embellishments were partial towards floral designs, Zara’s style was more linear and geometric. “I am very influenced by nature. I love flowers and which is why most of my work has a floral base,” says the mother. Meanwhile, Zara declared with a child like innocence that stars and the sky play an important role in feeding her creativity. As an artist, designing came naturally to Sabita and it comes as no surprise that she passed on the same genes to her daughter as well. “I love working with colours, fabrics and texture. I never went to a design school,” reveals the designer. She set up her embroidery workshop in the 1980’s. Over the last three decades, Sabita has managed to carve a niche for herself in the fashion industry. Apart from designing for the creme de la creme, she also creates outfits for those with smaller pockets. “I never create a replica of one garment. Since I do not retail on a large scale, I know when a piece is repeated. If someone comes to be with a tight budget, I spend more time with that person in order to fit everything they want and expect within the periphery given to me,” she informs. The mother-daughter duo do not succumb to trends and seasonal changes. “We do not depend on the forecast or what is in or out in terms of fashion while designing. Our style is a reflection of our passion and flare for creating exquisite and beautiful pieces that are one of a kind,” says Zara. A student of economics, Zara’s initial plans involved handling her mothers business, but that changed as her love affair with fabrics and colours began blossoming. “Unlike my mother I do plan to do ramp shows sometime in the future. At the moment I am retailing out of my mother’s showroom, but if all goes well I am also looking at branching out and increasing the retail capacity,” she gushes. She also plans to retail her collection in Bangalore in the near future.
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